Where in the world is David today? Fromista

Well, I shall get started on this, text only and perhaps wander down to the cafe with WiFi (two doors down) in a short while to add pictures and upload the photostream and ride data.

While I remember, I'll do another catch up, though I know there is something I have forgotten to add to my mental list. The first is a really old one - just to say that it was interesting riding through Basque country to see ETA slogans in a lot of places, but I was very struck when I saw a very forcible piece of anti-ETA graffiti in Cirauqui on the way to Estella at the weekend, and I thought I should put that on record. A second thing to mention is the ingenuity of pilgrims in overcoming their limitations. There are pilgrims of all ages, and some of the oldest I have seen were making good progress, in a little group - two with their baggage loaded in baby strollers,  and one with something looking like a small wheelie bin with two sticks for handles to steer it. I wish I had a photo of that, but I think it would have looked rude! What courage and fortitude they have. I feel quite humbled.

The third thing to comment on is the sheer quantity of pilgrims. Although I knew in my head how many there were likely to be, I had been quite unprepared for what it would be like in reality. If they all had a little light on their heads and you could photograph them from space, you could pick out the entire route! They travel alone, they travel in ad-hoc groups, they travel in couples, they travel as groups of friends. And there are lots. Tonight the refugio is absolutely packed, but maybe that is partly to do with the fact that Fromista is one of the most famous of the villages on the route.

Today was expected to be wet, but seemed to start out dry. However, by the time I had climbed up to over 1000m again there was precipitation even if you couldn't call it rain, and it really inhibited the taking of pictures. It was certainly enough to justify putting on wet weather clothing for the rest of the ride as it was wet on and off for the rest of the way, and although there has been blue sky and sun for a while this afternoon, the Meseta is living up to its reputation for changeable weather and we have had a thunderstorm as well. It was also supposed to be relatively flat, but there have been several steepish climbs because this isn't exactly a dead-flat plateau at 1020m, it is cut by numerous valleys, which take you back down hundreds of feet only to have to work your back up again. It is a fascinating landscape, and two things the book got right are that there are lots of beautiful wild flowers, and the villages largely look deserted.

The trip took just about 4 hours of riding, so I was here by about 11.30am. The only three things of real note I had seen on the way were a wonderful bridge at Itero del Castillo, a Rollo (a pillory) at Boadillo del Camino, where the church - said to have some notable features - was shut, and an apparently disused ladder of canal locks with no gates and a cascade of water. (Boadillo was also plagued with Camino tourists - wearing the right shoes and gear, but actually doing their sightseeing by coach. Grrr.) I didn't realise the significance of the canal at the time, but I researched it just now and discovered that it is part of the Canal de Castilla. For a briefer description, try this link, but I think it is worth reading the whole essay. It is either a tribute to the amazing (human) spirit of the Age of Enlightenment, or a monument to folly, or both. Take your pick, but read one of the links, don't just take my word for it.

As it was only a short distance from Fromista I pressed on. I should say that I had been riding on and off since Castrojeriz with a French couple who had come from Rouen, also on road bikes, but with far less luggage. They were obviously seasoned riders, and very strong ones, but it told me something about my improved fitness that I not only kept up, in the end I left them behind when I couldn't resist covering the last few miles to Fromista at speed. I should be careful - there have been a couple of knee twinges today. I must say, however, to ride together for a while is a good thing, especially with other people who just like to set a good rhythm and stick to it. That's the way to get there - find a rhythm and just keep the wheels turning, and the destination will come to meet you.

Fromista's Romanesque masterpiece of a church - San Martin - certainly lives up to its reputation for simplicity and homogeneity of style. (Sorry the link page is in Spanish, but it is the best, and you will just have to use Google Translate on it.) It is an absolute gem, now that it has been restored from a) the many thoughtless additions, and b) the state of decay it had got into. There is still restoration work going on, so there was scaffolding inside, but there is so much to look at. Beautiful, simple shapes. Fascinating capitals - I wish I had the patience to read a full explanation of them in Spanish. Curious juxtapositions of rooflines. And standing clear in a good space where you can stand back and admire it - not crowded in like the cathedral in Burgos. As one photo in the photostream will show, I can even see the church beautifully from the window next to my bed (I was one of the first, so I did get to pick). A view like that is priceless - see picture at right. For all the capitals, rooflines, etc. go to the photostream at left. (By the way, the San Martin in question at this church is St Martin of Tours, taking me back to an earlier point in the journey.)

The other churches of Fromista have their own attractions, but none can compare with San Martin. What they all have in common, with each other and with every other church in the area, it would seem, is storks. I can't help photographing all the storks I see - a bit like my French pulpit collection! What is equally memorable is their sound, and to see them in flight is something else. It doesn't happen all that often - they seem quite happy sitting up there on the roof/chimney/whatever - but when they do it is a beautiful thing. So far it has always taken me by surprise with my camera stowed, so I haven't caught it, but I will keep trying.

Fromista itself, however, is a disappointing little town. Being a bit of a tourist destination, it has a number of hotels as well as the Albergues (Refugios), and lots of bars and restaurants. Otherwise, it feels dead and decaying. There are three tiny supermarkets (smaller than a corner shop) with very limited goods, and the 'big' supermarket (still smaller than most Sainsbury Local stores) has closed down. Another pilgrim - a lovely lady from Puerto Rico doing the Camino for the second time commented along the same lines. Where is all the activity?? There is road building going on everywhere, and new railways are being built all over, but where is the economic output coming from??? No wonder Spain too is looking at an austerity package. Maybe that is what the demo was about when I was in Logrono, come to think of it.

I have just noticed that the noise levels have dropped dramatically. Either a lot of people have gone out (possible), or to bed (relatively unlikely), or like those of us in the dining room at the moment they are journalling, planning tomorrow's route, texting or writing postcards. I think I am the only one writing a blog, and even I am going to stop for now. There is only so much you can read! I have had a nap this afternoon, but hopefully will still sleep well tonight (till 6.00am breakfast). I have done my route planning and folded the map appropriately. I have done and dried my laundry. I have cleaned and oiled the bike. I have shopped for provisions. Hopefully I am all set for tomorrow, and another very reasonable day across the Meseta to Sahagun. Today has overall been quite easy and restful really, and another day like it (or even more so) tomorrow would be good. The miles and the days continue to tick away.