Where in the world is David today? Burgos (continued) with memories of Estella

Well, I did go for a walk, and I did take a stack more pictures, and I didn't have a siesta. It did rain, but not enough to put me off wandering round, though I kept the camera covered when not needed! What a fascinating city. I continue to warm to it (apart from the cathedral, as you probably gathered, though even that is an important 'presence' in the place). It is lively, whereas Pamplona was just plain noisy, and there is a much more cultured feeling about the place. That's obviously the snob in me coming out. I hope the pictures give you a sense of the place, and I've included a couple of samples here.

One of the things I enjoyed was the series of sculptures of figures arranged around the city - the pilgrim, an old couple, a man and his son in traditional dress, a blacksmith, a girl with an umbrella (actually made into a fountain) - those are just the ones I found, and I feel sure there are more. Another pleasure was the variety of architecture, and particularly the tall windows, galleries and balconies on the houses. The Casa del Cordon was particularly interesting, as I couldn't quite work out what the sign on it meant but I could tell it was significant. The web page I've linked gives the best information I could find in English, explaining the name and the symbolism of the cordon (the 'cord' over the door), the history of the house, and the connection to Christopher Columbus. The clocks I found were a nice curiosity too.

Anyway, in the title of the post, I mentioned memories of Estella. I realised today that I finished the post from Estella two days ago (made in the afternoon) by saying that I didn't know how I was going to feed myself. In the end, I discovered that a local restaurant with a 'menu de pellegrinos' was actually open on a Sunday evening, and I decided to go down there. Most other people were eating in, but a German gentleman - Herbert Schlierf - was looking to go out too, so we went together. We could not have had a nicer evening. There are 22 years between us, but we found a great deal in common. Herbert had spent time in California in the very early 1960s while still a law student, and it was interesting to hear him reflect on that experience - so soon after the end of the war (much sooner after the end of the war than we are now to the fall of the Berlin Wall). He and his wife met through singing (at the ages of 10 and 11), just as Kate and I were connected through the oboe, and his whole family are musical - several of his five children being freelance professionals.

We enjoyed a lovely meal, and a bottle of local wine, and talked and talked. That has been the spirit of this trip. Dragging ourselves back up the hill to the refugio was not easy. With luck I may see him again at some point as he is not attempting to do the whole thing on foot at the age of 74. This is his third time on the Camino, and so he is not concerned to 'keep the rules' and get his Compostela at the end. He wanted to do a different initial section (from Somport rather than St Jean-Pied-de-Port), and at times he will use buses, so he may well catch me up or even overtake me. If not, then we have exchanged email addresses. Buen Camino, Herbert.

Something I have been reflecting on quite seriously is the relative lack of commercialism surrounding the Camino. Of course there is some - shops selling sticks and gourds and shells and statues of St Jacques and so on. However, generally speaking it has been pretty low key. Alongside that goes the straightforward generosity of spirit people show towards pilgrims, as if we are doing the pilgrimage on behalf of them all. Perhaps we are? People wave and call out to you. Restaurants offer their special discount (and very good value) menus. Museums and attractions offer discounts. People do acts of kindness for nothing. And the refugios are clearly a gift of the community in so many ways. They are frequently in properties owned by parishes or communities, and they are staffed by volunteers, who generally go beyond the call of duty to help, especially if you are simply struggling to understand. And they are cheap. The smart one in Pamplona was a princely €6, and today's was just $4. Others simply ask for a donation. They cannot possibly break even, and although it may have been more difficult yesterday, overwhelming gratitude is the only appropriate (and natural response).

That's enough for a second dose today! Sleep well, and I hope you like my picture of a priest wondering whether to step out onto the crossing. It isn't me, but I relate to him.